b'Day 8JUNE 5We set out early to begin crossing the dry terrain of Central Washington, through the Old West towns of Winthrop and Twisp, eventually setting up camp in a city park near the main thoroughfare in Okanogan. On a desolate stretch of road outside Twisp, I experience my first flat tire. The road twists and turns so severely as we go west for a number of miles to go east, we feel the need to repeatedly revisit the map.My body creaks and I feel extreme pain in both knees and my back. Emilie seems to be doing well, and her spirits are lifted now that the rain and the climb over the Cascades is behind us. The dry climate in this areasaid to get only 13 inches precipitation per yearis in stark contrast to the Western side of the Cascades where it averages over 80 inches of rain a year. BEGIN: Mazama, WA END: Okanogan, WADISTANCE: 53.4 milesDay 9JUNE 6We leave our campsite in Okanogan and travel north, arriving in the sleepy town of Tonasket, 28 miles away. Just off the main road, we stop at the Tonasket Food Co-Op, which serves a good lunch and also some great homemade jerky and granola. We notice a community garden nearby and stop to chat with the co-op members tending to it. The sky darkens and it begins to rain. Emilie prevails and talks me into staying at a roadside motelthe Red Apple Inn. Since the climb up the Cascades, I am really struggling with pain in my knees, so after a day of riding I sit in bed with ice bags on both knees and a cold can of beer within reach.BEGIN: Okanogan, WAEND: Tonasket, WADISTANCE: 28.2 miles10'